Tutorial or Two - Winter Dresses from a Raglan Top Pattern

One of the things that first drew me into reading crafty blogs was the generosity of some beautiful bloggers who not only share ideas, but also share patterns and tutorials ... FOR FREE.  This was and is so amazing to me as I work on improving my sewing skills.  I mean, the thought of spending money on a pattern if you're not sure you can pull it off just kinda freaks me out.  Well, I've now bought several online patterns ... ones that I new I'd use a tonne ... and use them, I definitely do.  But I would never have been brave enough to try this had it not been for the super-clever sewists out there who are generous enough to share their hard work.  Thanks lovely bloggy-type people out there ... a big cyber-hug to you!!

Oh, and as an aside, have you seen and "liked" my Facebook page.  In an effort to get on top of my Facebook page a little more, and make it a resource that might be helpful, I'm going to be posting regular links to cute freebie patterns and tutorials I find in the blogosphere.  Check it out for some inspiration.

Anyway, one of my favourite things to do in my effort to become more creative with my sewing is to find a good base pattern, then play around with it to make it into something else.  That's what I'd like to share today.  Here's a couple of really quick tutorials I've made, using a basic Raglan-sleeve top pattern to make 2 different style winter dresses for my girls.  I used this Ranglan top pattern that I found for free on Scattered Thoughts of A Crafty Mom.  If you haven't seen this blog, check it out.  Jamie is one of my faves!  I first used this pattern when I made this Disco Diva top for Bethany, and it's a great pattern, and the sizing is really good too.  I'm pretty sure any raglan-sleeve top pattern would be fine for this project if you already have one you like, or if you're feeling brave you could always try drafting your own.  I did it 2 winters ago when I made some Raglan-sleeve PJ's for Bethany.  I found a great tutorial on how to do this here, at another of my all-time favourite sewing blogs!

Anyway, this was my first raglan-dress attempt.  Seeing as it's winter here, I used some gorgeous printed fleece fabrics for these dresses.  This fabric caught my eye the minute I walked into my local fabric store ... it was one of those fabrics that just jumps unaided into your arms, and you can't put it down without buying it ... you know what I mean?  I'm not convinced Daddy believes this story, but I'm sticking to it! 

It uses the raglan-sleeve top pattern, lengthened to a drop-waist length, and with a gathered skirt attached.  I added the navy-blue ribbing to the sleeves and neckline because I only had navy-blue or white ribbing on hand, and the flowers in this fabric are actually a cream colour ... white clashed a bit I thought.  But pink and navy is one of those timeless colour combos, and I love this little dress.  I'll admit that I made both girl's dresses a size bigger than they really need, so they are a tad big on them just now ... well you can't blame me for trying to get at least some of next winter from these outfits too!

For Bethany's dress, I modified the raglan-sleeve top pattern to create an A-line dress, then cinched the waist.  I like it, and so does Bethany (Phew!!).  And who ever said wet-weather should stop a photo-shoot ... how good is wet-weather lighting!!! ... and add an umbrella ... whoa ... both of my girls were fighting for a turn in front of the camera!  Oh, and how adorable is this baby deer fabric.  It's another printed fleece.  I tried to get more because I loved it so much, but it was sold out when I went back ... boooo!!!

Anyway, here's a couple of super-quick tutorials in case you want to modify your favourite raglan-sleeve top pattern to make a dress too ... 

Dress 1: Raglan Dress with a Gathered Skirt

You'll need:

- About 1 metre / yard of fabric.  This would work with any fleece or knit fabric, depending on what level of warmth you want.

- A small amount of coordinating rib fabric (for the sleeves and neckline)

- Raglan-sleeve pattern (like this one)

- Sewing machine and coordinating thread.

- Overlocker / Serger (if you want to use it, though knit and fleece fabrics don't fray, so you can always leave the raw edges unfinished!)

1. Use your pattern and cut all your pieces out (ie front, back, sleeves).  You could add a couple of inches to the length of the front/back pieces if you want to make the dropped-waist a little more ... well ... dropped!

2. Assemble and sew your raglan-sleeve top together as per your pattern instructions, but leaving the bottom edge un-finished.

3. For the skirt section, measure the bottom of your top.  Hannah's was 12 inches wide.  Then multiply this number by 1 1/2.  So Hannah's skirt width was 18".

Measure your munchkin from their hip to knee (or whatever length you're after) and add 1 inch.  Hannah's was 9 inches + 1 = 10".  This is the height of your skirt section.

4.  Cut two rectangles as per the above measurements ...so Hannah had 2 pieces measuring 18" x 10".

5. Place these pieces right sides together and sew the side seams (using 1/4 inch seam allowance).  Then turn the bottom edge up 1/2" and hem around (I find it easier to do this before attaching it to the top!)

6.  Using your sewing machine's longest stitch length (mine is number 6) sew a gathering row of stitches along the top raw edge, 1/4" from the edge, and from one side seam, all the way around and back to the same seam.  Don't backstitch at the beginning and end, and leave some threads so you have something to pull for gathering.  Then pull either the top or bottom thread to gather the skirt to fit the top like so.

7.  Insert the top section into your skirt section right sides together, match up the side seams and pin all around like so ...

... then sew all around, using a 1/2" seam allowance.

8.  Flip your dress right-side-out and sew a top-stitching row around the waist, while pushing the seam allowance on the inside up towards the top of the dress, so that it gets held in the top-stitching.  This just helps to keep it all flatter, and I love a bit of top-stitching!

And you're done!  A very simple, yet effective little dress!  And just as warm as any sweater too!

Dress 2: Raglan-Sleeve Dress with an Elastic Waist

You'll need:

- About 1 metre / yard of fabric.  This would work with any fleece or knit fabric, depending on what level of warmth you want.

- A small amount of coordinating rib fabric (for the sleeves and neckline)

- Some 1/2" wide elastic ... enough to fit around your munchkin's waist, plus 2-3 inches to make it more comfortable.

- Raglan-sleeve pattern (like this one)

- Sewing machine and coordinating thread.

- Overlocker / Serger (if you want to use it, though knit and fleece fabrics don't fray, so you can always leave the raw edges unfinished!)

1.  Measure from your munchkin's waist to her knee (or whatever length you want) and add 1/2".  Then place your pattern on your fabric as per the pattern's instructions, extending the bottom of the pattern by the above measurement to make it a dress.

2.  Draw a line from the armpit of your front pattern piece on a diagonal out from the pattern to the bottom of your fabric like so ... this is effectively making the pattern into an A-line style. I measured approximately 4" out from the edge of the pattern piece, and at the bottom of the dress, and this was a good angle for Bethany's size 7 dress.

3.  Cut along this line, and around the top sections of your pattern piece ... like so ...

4. Repeat for the back pattern piece, and also cut out your sleeve pieces as per your pattern.

5.  Assemble your dress as per your raglan-sleeve top pattern instructions, and hem the bottom.

6.  Turn your dress inside-out.  Measure down from the armpit to the approximately location of your munchkin's waist.  I estimated Bethany's waist to be approximately 7" from the arm-pit seam.  Mark this spot with a pin, and repeat on the other side.

7.  Draw a line from one pin to the other like so.  Also measure this distance.  Bethany's was 17 1/2".

8. Cut 2 strips of fabric that are 1 1/2" wide and the width you measured above (plus 1/2 " to cater for the seams) ... so Bethany's strips were 1 1/2" x 18".

9.  Sew the strips together to make a belt-shape casing like so ...

10.  Thread the dress into the casing and line up the side seams.  Then tuck the raw edges of the casing under, and pin to the dress.

 ... then sew around the top and bottom of the casing, approximately 1/8" from the edge so there's enough room for the elastic to go through.  On the bottom edge, leave a 1" gap at the beginning of your row of stitching to allow threading of the elastic.

11.  Use a safety pin to thread your elastic through the casing ...

... then join the ends of the elastic by overlapping slightly and stitching wiht a zig zag stitch.

And you're done.  

Two dresses, from 1 top pattern, which was available free online!  Yay for that!  Hope you have as much fun as I did!

When the fabric comes before the project plan - Sweat-pant leggings Tutorial

So I popped in to my local Spotlight store a few weeks ago with the very specific intention of grabbing some elastic and a particular ribbon I needed ... yeah like that's ever gonna happen.  I came out with about $50 worth of stuff ... oops! Come on ... I know I'm not the only one that does that!  Fess up!!

Anyhow, my star-find that day was this gorgeous plush mustard yellow tribal-ish looking fleece.  I'm in love with this fabric.  The brushed back-side of this is the softest, most smooth and snuggly-feeling fleece I've ever seen.  Just think about those super-soft baby plush stuffed toys ... yep, that's what it's like.  I had no idea what to make out of it, but with winter fast approaching, I grabbed a metre in the hope some inspiration would come along.

Anyway as is typical with my project planning, the idea evolved A LOT before it was made.  I started with planning to make a winter dress for Bethany and pinafore for Hannah.  But after a bit more thinking about what they actually need in their wardrobes this winter (LOL ... "need" - I'm kidding myself.  These girls never NEED any clothes), there has been no dress or pinafore, but some little sweat-pants-with-a-twist for Hannah.  They're kinda tighter like leggings, 'cause I like the way leggings look, and I love the warmth of sweat-pants, but they can look a little daggy.  So this is a compromise, a have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too type effort.  In fact, these little Sweat-gings (OK, so the name is still a work in progress) started a run of winter wardrobe sewing for both girls.  After the first mustard pair, I raided my Mum's stash of winter fleece that she's had since she ran a children's clothing business many eons ago, and made Hannah 3 pairs in all.  

I also managed some for Bethany with this beautiful floral fleece.

Oh, and what did Bethany score from Mummy's fabric-crush?  

A skirt!  I love the way this fleece sits in this skirt, which is just your basic rectangle with elastic in the waist.  I added the extra band on the bottom of the skirt because it adds just a little more weight and makes the skirt sit just that bit nicer.  Oh, and the gorgeous light-weight cardi Bethany is wearing here is from this tutorial.  I've been wanting to try this one for a while, and the bright watermelon colour in the original design prompted me to give it a go for this outfit.  I thought the colour would contrast well together with the mustard in the skirt, and I really love the combo! The white top underneath is from this tutorial, one I've also had on my to-do list for ages.  iCandy handmade is a great in case you didn't already know that!  These were both super-easy and quick with free pattern downloads too!   Bethany may be getting a few more of these tops if I can get my hands on some cute knit-prints.

Anyway, onto the tutorial.  Here's how I made these Sweatpant-leggings for both Hannah and Bethany:

What you need:
- 1/2 yard fleece fabric (one with a bit of stretch is a good option)
- Coordinating thread
- A length of 1/2 inch elastic long enough to fit around your munchkin's waist
- Sewing machine and Overlocker (Serger) - Though the overlocker is definitely not an essential for this one as fleece doesn't fray, so leaving the seams with raw edges would be totally fine.
- Tracing paper (I used a roll of brown paper I bought at a discount store)

Let's get moving:

1. Grab a pair of currently fitting leggings fold them in half and trace around them, leaving an additional 1 1/2 inches at the waist to allow for waist-band.  Leave a 1/2 inch seam allowance on the straight and curved sizes.  Leave 1 1/2 inches extra at the waist to allow for turning a waistband.  No need for any extra allowance at the bottom of the leg, 'cause we'll be adding a cuff.  Cut out your pattern piece.

2. Fold the fabric and place the straight edge on the fold and pin.   The stretch should run across the the pattern.  You might be able to make out my markings on this pattern.

3. Cut 2 pieces.  When opened out they should look something like this.

4. Place your two pieces right sides together and sew along the top curved section on each side, then overlock the seams (if you have an overlocker) as so...

5. Open out the pants and place the seams in line at the front and back so that you have something that looks vaguely pant-shaped.  Pin the inside leg seam as so, and sew / overlock around. (NOTE: Ignore the cuffs on the bottom of this picture ... they were a mistake ... yep I'm still making plenty of those!! ... the cuffs shouldn't be there at this stage!!)

6.  Overlock (if you have an overlocker) around the waistband.  Fold your waist-band down 1 inch, and sew around, leaving a 1/2 inch opening to allow the elastic to be threaded through.

7.  Measure your munchkin's waist and cute the elastic to this length. Thread the elastic through the waistband using a safety-pin.  Overlap the ends of the elastic about 1/2 inch, and sew down.

8. Now to make the cuffs ... Place the little pants flat on the table, and measure the width of the bottom of each leg.  Mine were 4 inches.  Grab some offcuts of your fabric, and cut 2 rectangles that measure 2 x width by 4 inches.  In this case, the rectangles were 8 inches (i.e. 2x4") by 4 inches.

Fold the cuffs in half right sides together along the long side (to make a square shape) and sew using 1/4 inch seam.

 Turn the cuff right side out, then fold in half long-ways to make a band, right side out.  

Turn the little pants right-side out, and place the cuff over the pant leg, lining up the raw edges of the cuff with the raw edges of the pant leg.  Line up the seam on the cuff with the seam on the pants, then pin in place.  You may need to stretch the cuff slightly to fit the pant leg.  Sew around the raw edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  (You should be sewing through 3 layers of fabric .... 2 layers of cuff, and 1 layer of pant-leg).  Finish off the seam by overlocking.

Then flip down the cuff, and you're done.

If using a stripe or any directional print, it can be fun to rotate the direction for the cuffs like in this striped one.  A little bow or other decoration can add a little interest too ... have fun with it!

Anyone for golf?

I think I'm making a habit of the matching-but-not outfits for my girls.  Don't worry, this is the first and only time they'll be wearing them on the same day.  Oh, and this photo just melts this Mummy's heart!  I just love watching what great little friends they're becoming now that Hannah's well and truly out of her baby-phase.